Ramnagar ki Ramleela

When I got posted to Varanasi, it was a shock from the professional aspect but on personal front, I was not disappointed. It is believed that the place is blessed and I hoped to experience its positive energy. 

While staying in the officer's mess and not yet part of the golfing circuit at DLW (Diesel Locomotive Workshop of Indian Railways), I had a lot of time at hand in the mornings. Thence started the routine of long walks to Assi ghat, then along river till Dashashwamedh and back. It appeared that the dirt which administration and NGOs had removed from the ghats had been deposited on the roadsides. Nevertheless, mesmerising performances of Subah-e-Banaras at Assi ghat, while sipping hot lemon tea and savouring on Kachori and Lassi, as early as Six O’clock in the morning, were enriching for soul more than its shell. The ghee and sweet combo after a long walk on chilly winter morning, a perfect recipe for a longer siesta in the day.

I was fascinated with the place and wanting to know more, started to read about Varanasi. Using Fauji card, I managed a limited subscription to the well stocked Sayaji Rao Gaekwad library of BHU and got hold of a few books. One of the book, by Prof RPB Singh I think, mentioned a unique practice of Ram Leela in the adjacent town of Ramnagar. I was instantly intrigued to witness the event but Dussehra was still many months away. I enquired from my office colleagues about the exact location of the event and did they like it? To my surprise, not even one of them had seen it. Some weren’t even aware such a thing exists. The search on internet also didn’t reveal much. Along with astonishment, this increased my curiosity further. 

Soon came October and although Ram Leela here is a month long event, I could manage only one day to visit due to unusually hectic schedule. Yes, we in NCC also work. After having found out a few more details, we, as in full family, set out to see the event in the evening. A new bridge across Ganga, next to the pontoon bridge from Varanasi to Ramnagar, had been constructed and was ready to use. However, its ribbon was intact due unavailability of a suitably ranked minister. Consequently, we took the main highway through Mughal Sarai.

Once in Ramnagar, we saw some empty grounds with sign boards depicting sites as Ayodhya, Ashok Vatika and Janakpuri. Driving with the flow of traffic, we reached a place which appeared sort of a village fair. Haphazardly parked vehicles, push carts stacked with local snacks and sweets, balloon and toys sellers on bicycles, tin shed shops selling utility items and an old fashioned wooden merry go round on wheels. One thing which appeared odd was the Silence. Barring an odd horn from a two wheeler on road and a little noise from hushed talking, it was hard to accept we were amidst such a large gathering.

The crowd, seated mostly on their haunches or on mats, encircling a group of artists in costumes of bright hues and painted faces, who were delivering dialogues as if reciting a poem. Two old men, standing beside them holding open voluminous books, prompting them. As we tried to get closer, I was stopped by a burly man, who asked me not to block the view of Rani Sahiba in the car. I disregarded his request stating “Kiski Rani, kaunsa desh”. Soon, two policemen, who I think were watching us, approached and with unconventional politeness asked me to give due regard, as they were the family members of Raja of Ramnagar. I glanced inside the vintage land cruiser and found a few old ladies, watching the proceeding intently. I agreed to step away and then this friendly policeman pointed towards two elephants on the other side of crowd. These were of the Raja too, one for himself and other one for his guests. I couldn’t believe the old Raja had energy to continue with such superfluous efforts. Seeing my expression, the policeman explained that this land belongs to the Raja and it is only because of him this event has been possible every year. The stature of the Raja grew multiple times immediately, way higher than his throne on the elephant.

Now from about 30 to 35 meters we started to watch and listen attentively to the proceedings. There were no lights, mics or even a stage, still, the show was captivating. As I took out my mobile from the pocket for a photo, the policeman, with a smile said, not permitted. I didn’t argue this time. I noticed no one was holding any camera or trying to take a photo from mobile phone. I abandoned further thoughts to concentrate on the proceedings.

Shree Ram and Lakshman were sitting on stool sized rocks with Hanuman and Sugreev in attendance. Sugreev with folded hands was pleading. As he finished his part, Shree Ram got up, kept his hand on Sugreev's shoulder reassuringly and while reciting his lines, motioned him to go. Suddenly, there was commotion in the crowd and people started to get up. Shree Ram, along with other performers, set course towards an elevated area about couple of hundred yards to our right. The crowd moved with them, elephants and the car followed. I rushed to the policeman, our unofficial guide, to enquire. Everyone was moving to the place marked as Bali's kingdom for the duel between Bali and Sugreev, followed by Bali’s Vadh by Shree Ram.

This is unique aspect of the whole affair. The artists walk to next location as per the story, crowd moves with them and so does all sellers with their shops.

On the way back, our driver, who despite being a local, had witnessed this for the first time, educated us more about facts he had found out. The artists recite Ram Charitra Manas and those old people along with them, were carrying the same for prompting. Many in audience also carried their own copies. In older days, the artists chosen to play parts of Ram and Sita for that year, genuinely married after Sita Swayamvar. And today we fuss over fake Reality shows. Lanka, the famous locale of Varanasi across Ganga, was where Lanka Kaand used to be held. Not many changes have taken place in this tradition till date. Without artificial lighting, the act lasts till natural light is sufficient.  So reach well before sunset to enjoy this leela. Last and most important, in case you want to do photography of the event, take permission from Raja of Ramnagar.

A lot of our heritage has got lost and traditions have got modified with time. Modernity brings along comfort which allows us to disregard ways of the past. I wish we continue to retain such customs not just for profit but also as a remembrance of our cherished history.